This charming, cosy restaurant at the top of Bath is real find – the first time, I must admit, that I’ve eaten Sardinian food, although it most certainly won’t be the last!
You might be tempted to expect it to follow the familiar rules of Italian food, but although it is an (autonomous) part of Italy, Sardinia is something all of its own. A long history of visitors, and invaders, from all over the region has left the island with a richly varied cuisine, and this is the perfect place to try it.
On a sunny evening, you can sit outside on the broad raised pavement that runs along the top of George St, under fluttering awnings and with a view down through the city, and kid yourself that you might be a little closer to the Mediterranean. Unfortunately on the evening that I went, it was pouring down with rain outside. However, the welcome we received was warm, and the small, softly-lit room at the front of the restaurant (there’s much more space out the back, but the atmosphere is best at the front) was filled with tempting scents and happy conversation.
To start, we sampled some of the restaurant’s traditional Sardinian flatbread, which is incredibly thin and crisp, and sprinkled with olive oil, salt and rosemary. It’s the perfect partner to marinated olives and a glass of wine (I opted for the Arpeggio Rosso, a light Sicilian red). For my main course, I chose the culurgiones all’agnello, a Sardinian riff on ravioli, filled with meltingly soft potato, Pecorino and mint, and served with a rich lamb ragu. The flavours were so fresh and distinct from what I would normally expect from Italian ravioli, particularly the addition of mint, and the dish was beautifully balanced, with no one flavour overpowering the others. My dining companion chose the insalatona con fior di latte, a fabulous fresh salad, served cold with mozzarella, potato, raw onion, salad leaves and balsamic vinegar. Again, the raw onion was an unexpected flavour which helped to make the dish excitingly different, while the time-honoured pairing of mozzarella and balsamic vinegar was as delicious as ever.
For dessert, I chose the fondente al cioccolato, a swooningly delicious chocolate pudding with an oozing centre. The flavours were almost too rich, so that I would have appreciated a little ice cream rather than a drizzle of cream, but when this is the only criticism I can think of, you know you’re in safe hands with this kitchen.
The staff were consistently attentive, friendly and helpful, and the service was very rapid indeed. If you’re looking for something a little different to tickle your tastebuds whilst keeping to a thoroughly high standard, Aio is the place to choose. And if you want to celebrate with something a little special, take a look at the website and consider ordering a roast suckling pig (must be done two days in advance), a fabulously tempting alternative to a Sunday roast.
Sally Godfrey also writes a fabulous blog, including recipes, reviews, and tips & tricks for the kitchen, at www.salskitchen.blogspot.co.uk.
