On Tuesday I took the plunge and sampled the Marlborough Tavern’s Burger Night. Following the format of other weekly specialty nights, The Tavern’s menu boasted a range of burgers, sides and accompaniments that were aimed to suit every taste.
Reading through this ode to meat and bread, it was quite clear that this was going to be no Wetherspoons beer-and-burger-for-a-fiver deal.
With options of pork and chorizo with apple chutney, Cornish cod fillet with dill and caper mayonnaise and spicy falafel with chilli and coriander salsa, there was a certain amount of class and creativity that aroused the senses.
It was also good to see other, more interesting options on the menu, such as homemade baked beans and chargrilled corn on the cob, which added a sense of fun and frivolity to the dinner. After pouring over the menu, I settled on the venison burger with caramelized red onion, while my friend had the cod, complemented with a bottle of St Hallet Shiraz Grenache.
We were served by the attentive Josh, who was friendly and well-versed in the wine list, and while waiting for our food we took in our surroundings. The combination of statement walls, rustic paintings and subdued lighting give the Tavern a gastro yet comforting feel, the kind of place where you could take a date for an affordable meal without the homogeneous ambience of other pub or restaurant chains.
When we arrived, the bar and restaurant floor was bustling, and food was flying out at a quick speed. The staff on hand were present, but not overbearing, and the hum of comfortable chatter and flicker of candle-light quickly lulled us into a sense of ease.
Our food arrived swiftly, and I think it’s safe to say that I had never tasted a burger like it in my life. The venison held a rich, tangy flavour, cut through perfectly by the onion, and the sharpness of the relish added a much-needed spice to the delicious yet otherwise tame patty. This was held in a soft seeded bun, which my friend thought was the pinnacle of the masterpiece, as its pillow-like texture took the burger from good to a gastro-great.
What really clinched it for me though was that I was able to actually eat the thing without having to dislocate my jaw or use (shudder) a knife and fork. Using cutlery to eat a burger is like eating crisps with tweezers: a downright abomination. The chef at the Tavern clearly knows this, and so created a juicy, delectable remedy to what so often turns into a culinary jawbreaker (literally).
Served with a side of light, crispy fries, this was a welcome take on what is so often a generic, clumsy dish that is regurgitated through English restaurant cuisine.
Reflecting on my evening by taking into account the amazing food, the attentive yet light hand of service and the comforting atmosphere, The Tavern went above and beyond my somewhat dubious expectations.
Next week I’m told it’s their famous Mussels Night, and all I can say to close this review is…
See you then.
Our thanks to Elliot Taylor for this review.
